![]() I actually did that 20 years ago and am still living in the same house. A true gate opener system with all the correct circuits and switches would be adjustable, and include provisions to stop the gate if it detects that it hits an obstruction. They have their stuff for sale on amazon. ![]() We sell to US Automatic, and they make a reputable product. otherwise you're just pulling against the locks or depending on your closing device to lock the gate. You'll also need someway to lock and unlock the gate shut at the other post automatically. and probably a bunch of other electrical gobblety gook. You'll need a RF transciever, receiver, switch combination. You can get a simple acme drive 12v linear actuator with limit switches, but the power (battery, and how to charge it) and the start signal is whats complicated. The other option is an air cylinder if you have the compressed air available and only want 1 way operation. If you go to Mcmaster-carr, or grainger, you can buy linear actuators and gear-motors to do this sort of thing. (inexpensive ones, homebuilt ones that aren't tacky or cumbersome, yadda, yadda, yadda) I only want a closing mechanism, gravity opens it fine. After you get the distance all dialed in, build a nice cover. ![]() The great thing about this setup is it is a cheap solution compared "gate openers". My bracket is an 1/8" piece of strap steel with the derailer sprockets mounted on each end with a mounting hole in the center (mounted in the center so it can teeter back and forth while still putting pressure on both sides of the units main sprocket). With the old derailer sprockets make a bracket that keeps the chain under tension on the garage doors sprocket. The chain has to run the length of your gate. You will also need to buy an old derailer, you will need it for parts. Next, go to your local bicycle shop and buy some chain. ![]() Here is the solution, go and buy a chain driven garage door opener and mount it on its side (gear/sprocket side towards your gate). The first thing you find out when you start researching gate opener electronics is they are very expensive (not my style at all). Next, I surrounded the post with cinder blocks and more concrete between the steel post and the cinder block, then used bricks.I built my own automatic gate about 5-6 years ago. Then I filled the 6" 圆" post with concrete. Mine stated with a 6" x 6" square metal pole, stuck 6' into the ground, with concrete poured around the large hole I dug for it. I hope you built one hell of a post to mount your gate to, given its size. If not, the gate opener will take the brunt of the force when it comes to a stop. Also make sure you have a very sturdy, positive stop for the gate when its in the open position. I have sensors that I mounted in the driveway to prevent the gate from closing on a car, or more importantly, my 4 or 6 year olds. Also needed by Gas/Electric to read the meters. Same goes for the Gas/Electric company (in case there is a gas leak). In my area, an over ride switch with a universal key is required for the fire department. There are other things you should look into when installing your gate. During big storms, the gate almost doesn't want to open with the wind pushing against it. We live at the very top of a hill (about 2000ft above sea level) and a half mile from the Pacific Ocean in San Diego. In the long run the movement will destroy the gate opener. The wind can really move a gate that size around. Be sure to buy an electric magnet to keep it firmly shut. I ended up purchasing a GTO/PRO SW4000XL.
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